The first time that I visited Lord Howe Island- a world heritage site in the Tasman Sea, it was as an interloper. Back in the early 80s I was working as a political reporter and hot on the trail of the NSW Premier Neville Wran and his wife, Jill, who had taken a breather at `Lord Howe’ during a tumultuous time in State politics. .
This experience taught me much about the islanders’ fierce loyalty to their regulars (my photographer and I were basically shunned) I was also knocked out by the wild beauty of this destination, which looked like an adventure movie set. I almost expected Harrison Ford to come bobbing up behind a Kentia palm.
Even getting there was epic as there were no two-hour direct flights from Sydney as there are now. We had to fly via Norfolk Island and bring our passports along.
The Wrans were staying at their regular accommodation at Pinetrees Lodge. Despite it being the off season, there was absolutely no way a room would be found for us. So, we sought refuge in a two bedroom holiday rental apartment. With no restaurant open, except for the one on Pinetrees, we dined on potato crisps and peanuts at the local bowling club.
Lord Howe is not for everyone…
Restricted to just 400 beds on the 14sq km island at any one time, Lord Howe Island redefines exclusive. However it does host plenty of wild life including 500 species of fish and 207 species of birds.
Add that to the 90 species of coral and the 241 varieties of indigenous plants including some that cannot be found anywhere else in the world and Lord Howe Island just 600km east of Port Macquarie, is quite simply a natural wonderland.
Luxury style on a total getaway
Mr Wran had excellent taste- the iconic Pinetrees Lodge, established in 1848, has an almost fairytale setting on the Lord Howe Island lagoon, framed by the rocky outcrops and the gracious pine trees that gave the resort its name. Choose from stylish suites and rooms - to the well-equipped cottages. You will be well look after, as the restaurant’s chefs, really know how to make the fresh fish and local ingredients shine, so every dinner at Pinetrees is special. The food is aromatic and unpretentious with plenty of barbecue feasts and delicious afternoon teas. And it’s easy to work up an appetite here with a full range of water sports literally at your doorstep.
Become a castaway at Capella Lodge
Accommodation on Lord Howe Islands includes everything from modest holiday rentals - to Capella, which is a benchmark of island excellence that is uniquely Australian. A member of the Baillie Lodges and Luxury Lodges of Australia, Capella is dedicated to its guests’ pleasure with just nine suites and pavilions, along with an indulgent spa and even more decadent food and wine. It’s a celebration of the natural wonder of Lord Howe Island which begins when you stroll out to Gowers Terrace and take in the soaring, swooping bird life that may include terns, red tailed tropicbirds with their flamboyant courting ritual that is even more telling than those on Married At First Sight.
Getting on your bike
There’s no such thing as peak hour on Lord Howe Island especially as bicycling is the transportation of choice, along with trekking around the long the extraordinary paths. You can easily book a guided tour through your accommodation or at the tourist office. The super fit might consider the organised Seven Peaks Walk that goes on for six days with accommodation included. It’s one of those bucket list experiences.
Meanwhile diving enthusiasts can rejoice in the Lord Howe Island Marine Park, which is one of the world’s best diving sites with 60 dive sites.
But some of us just like to go fishing (a `fishing expedition’ after all, was the reason my paper assigned me to follow the Wrans to `Lord Howe’ to see what might surface during their mini break).
However what happened next was totally unexpected. The magnanimous Premier not only felt sorry for my photographer and I on our diet of crisps and nuts but invited us to dinner at Pinetrees. The next morning, he also found room for us on a fishing boat. I’m happy to report that for the one and only time in my life, I actually caught a fish (which just shows you, the water is teeming with them).
We left the island later that day with an interview and a set of photographs, which were both splashed on the `Herald’s’ front page. The couple was then able to enjoy their sojourn in the peace and privacy they deserved.
However, every time I ran into Mr Wran in State Parliament after that, he would laugh and ask whether I had been fishing for my dinner? Unfortunately that could only ever happen again somewhere as magical as Lord Howe Island…
Getting there
Qantas Link has regular direct flights from Lord Howe Island from Sydney and Brisbane.
Eastern Air Services fly from Port Macquarie and Newcastle
There’s several package deals on offer, it’s just a question of shopping around on the different sites. Pinetrees Lodge, for example offers $2,550 per person, twin share deal for five nights with full breakfasts, lunches, four course dinners and afternoon teas, plus a meet and greet on arrival with an island tour. It does not include airfares.
There are many different packages available that do include airfare that start from around $1,560 for modest accommodation and go up to $7199 for seven nights at Capella Lodge.
